Saturday, February 19, 2005

Siku ya kumi na sita, Siku ya kumi na saba (Days 16-17): Mungu Ibariki Afrika

December 21-22, 2005 -- A collection of pictures taken at Mama Wilson's, in Arusha town, and Arusha National Park can be found at Arusha and Environs.

The weather matched our mood -- gloomy. This is our last day in Africa, for now. It rained during the night and continued through early morning. God had listened to Wilbard's prayer for rain for his crops. Long sad farewell with Albert, Bernadetha, Lenarda, and other Farm House staff, then on the road to Arusha. By the time we reached the Manyara Escarpment the sun was blazing. The sunshine helped to lift our spirits.

The effects of the rain were most apparent at Lake Manyara. When we had visited the lake earlier in the week it appeared like a minor pond. On this day, Lake Manyara had now spread out to its most outer banks showing the transformative power of water on the floor of the Great Rift Valley. The Maasai and their flocks were out in force taking advantage of the latest gift from the heavens. Many Maasai gathered around pools to wash their shukas and bathe. The pastures and highlands were lushly green. God was definitely blessing Africa today!

We made three stops before reaching Mama Wilson's in Arusha. First, the T-Shirt Shack for some souvenirs we didn't think we needed the first time around. Our second stop was at Fotini, a fabulous gift and antique shop owned and operated by George and Lucy Vrontamitis near the Braeburn School, outside Arusha -- the find of the day. It was a GREAT shop -- beautiful batiks, handwork, jewelry, etc. Complimentary refreshments for shoppers were available -- coffee, tea, cake, and sherry. The atmosphere was relaxing and welcoming. I'm still looking for the mythical Fotini shop in North America. I guess I'll have to return to Tanzania in order to capture that ambiance. Next stop, the Cultural Heritage Center in Arusha to claim our previous purchases, and perhaps make a few more purchases, then finally arrived at Mama Wilson's for lunch. The afternoon was free time. Many repacked their luggage to include newly acquired items.

I couldn't sit still so I asked Pascal to take me into Arusha town in search of tire shoes. The Maasai make and wear shoes made from old tires. The tread of the tire is cut to foot size and the natural curve of the tire cradles the foot on either side. Straps are created from sidewalls or from the more flexible rubber tubing. They are quite comfortable and long lasting. Once in town, Pascal located a young street Maasai who was more than happy to lead the way. I selected a pair and wore them immediately. On the way back to the vehicle, the young Maasai, stopped at every street corner to dance and jump. I obliged him of course, it was too much fun. He was very happy when I presented him with 2000 shillings.

Dinner was at 5:30pm -- Mungu, it was sad. You could cut the tension with a knife. We gave Pascal, Alex, and James our Polaroid camera, field guides, and other cameras and gear. David, Mama Wilson's manager, presented me with a postcard with a heart-felt Kiswahili message.

Finally it was time to head to the airport. My family rode with James (Pascal and Alex could not accompany us to the airport because they had to pick up another safari group). As we left Mama Wilson's we looked up and there was Mt. Meru -- no clouds, sheer magnificence.

Longest ride of our lives. The bond we had created with James, Pascal, and Alex was so strong that we did not want to leave. James was also visibly struggling -- even after we passed through the first two security checkpoints he lingered on the other side of the partition. He did not leave until we disappeared into the waiting room.

Waiting for our flight was deadly -- knowing we were still in Tanzania but not able to be with James, Alex, and Pascal.

LONG flights to Amsterdam, then Boston. Exhausted, we managed to muster enough energy to drive the last four hours from Boston to St. George, VT.

It was nice to come home and find Siobhan's friends had decorated the house for Christmas. Simon, our yellow labrador, was happy to see us. Our journey to Africa has just begun!

Saturday, February 12, 2005

Siku ya kumi na tano (Day 15): Shikwa na msiba mkuu

December 20, 2004

A sadness has come over the group. The realization that we must leave the Serengeti leaves a hole in our hearts. We're quieter than usual. After group photos with camp staff and guides, we reluctantly piled into our vehicles for the drive back to Ngorongoro Farm House.

As we climbed back up the western slopes of Olgira le Korongoro we watched wistfully as bomas, Maasai herdsmen with their flocks, and the incredible beauty of this land slipped past. Too soon we reached the rim of the crater, once again made breathless by the sheer size and perfection of the caldera. How we yearned to drop down its slopes and roam the crater floor once more in search of rhino, lion, buffalo, zebra and wildebeest. But alas, that was not to be; we circled the rim, then departed through the park gate and headed to the Farm House.

The staff at the Farm House lifted our spirits with a delicious lunch and a brief but energizing visit from owner Wilbard Chambulo (a.k.a. Willy). Many of us spent the afternoon relaxing by the pool. Bernadetha presented Carol with the two-piece dresses that were tailored from Katenge fabric while we were in the Serengeti. The beautifully tailored dresses fit perfectly. Carol gave one of the dresses as a gift to her sister, Beverly.

Albert, Farm House manager, and Willy gave a group of us a tour of the gardens and new guest bungalows. Willy is rightfully very proud of his operation.

Carol and Beverly debuted their newly tailored African attires. During pre-dinner drinks at the campfire James and Alex bestowed them with the titles of "Mama Africa", and "Maasai Princess."

Dinner was beautiful, but the reality that this was our last evening together tempered our high spirits. Even the gods seemed to be sending us a message -- throughout dinner the skies flashed with lightening and the rumble of thunder filled the air. With heavy hearts we headed to our cottages for our last night in Africa.

Siku ya kumi na nne (Day 14): Miti Mitatu

December 19, 2004 -- A collection of pictures taken in the Serengeti National Park can be found at Elwai Esirenget.

Our personal wakeup call was before 5am as James came calling in the dark, "Carol, Carol. Are you awake? Come see the Southern Cross." Carol had wanted to see the constellation and the only time it is visible near the equator is before sunrise. It turned out to be a clear morning sky so Carol got to see her Southern Cross along with James, who is also an avid star gazer.

We were on the road by 6:30am in a southeasterly direction towards Naabi Hill Gate. Our main objective on this day was to meet up with large migrating wildebeest herds. The day started well for us but not for the wildebeest. Before reaching Naabi Hill Gate, we encountered a hyena clan finishing a wildebeest breakfast. About five minutes later, we stopped to let a 100 plus herd of wildebeest cross the road -- the source of the early hyena breakfast seen earlier no doubt. A single and maybe unfortunate wildebeest had broken from the herd and headed in the direction of the hyenas. Near Naabi Hill eight giraffe were browsing in a small woodland in the middle the open savannah.

After leaving the Naabi Hill Gate Visitor's Center we came upon a pride of lions (one male, half a dozen lionesses, and cubs). They were hunkered down waiting for an opportunity to pounce on a migrating animal. The farther south we drove the bigger and more mixed the herds became -- wildebeest, yapping zebra, and gazelle. The wildebeest are funny because they march with their head down in a single file (like ants to a picnic) for miles. Golden jackals were also seen following from a distance. We discovered that jackals will let the hyenas and lions do the hard work of bringing down an animal and then dart in and out at the kill site trying to grab a morsel.

We turned off the main dirt track and headed south towards Lake Ndutu. Our guides, Pascal, James, and Alex were getting nervous because we still were not finding the gathering of herds they expected. We were also seeing other vehicles headed back north. But we persisted, past Nungunungu (Porcupine) camp grounds, Ndutu Lodge and airstrip, then a beautiful drive along the Oldibai River through the Ildapashi and Elemetti swamps. The herds began to appear in earnest, pouring into the swamp bed. I counted 100 animals passing me every five minutes.

We drove on to Miti Mitatu (three trees), spotting cheetah and lion seeking protection from the blistering sun under acacia trees, an abandoned ostrich egg, and a timid but well camouflaged African hare. Passed into the Maswa Game Reserve at the southern tip of the Serengeti and stopped for a picnic lunch under a spreading acacia.

Afterwards we drove south towards Twin Peaks, then turned east and north to return to Makoma Hills. We arrived back at camp around 3:30pm, affording us plenty of time to rest, talk at the campfire, and try to accept the fact that we had just completed our last game drive of the safari. I thought it would go on forever!

We celebrated our last game drive with a traditional Tanzanian dinner of barbecued meats, rice, and polenta. Finally, I could eat an entire meal without utensils by rolling the meat into balls with the rice and polenta. During the night the hyenas were in the camp and we heard leopard "huffing" loudly just in the shadows beyond the camp's lantern lights.

Saturday, February 05, 2005

Siku ya kumi na tatu (Day 13): Balloon Flight, Lion Cubs, Cheetahs

December 18, 2004 -- A collection of pictures taken in the Serengeti National Park can be found at Elwai Esirenget.

Our balloonists (Beverly, Brittany, Harry, and Robin) needed to be up by 4:45am to catch their 5:15am ride to the launch site, which was east of the camp along the Seronera River and west of the Maasai Kopjes. They were aloft for about an hour, flying from east to west. The rest of us were on the road by 7am for a leisurely "chase" of the hot-air balloon and abbreviated game drive. We watched the balloon landing -- it appeared to touch down very softly. Part of the balloon experience was a champagne breakfast out on the plains under an acacia tree. So while they dined "au grand air", we continued our game drive.

We added a crocodile (a juvenile only about two feet in length) to our small list of identified reptiles. In the same location we spotted two striking grey-crowned cranes. By mid-morning the balloonists were back with the group to complete the morning by exploring the woodland savannah along the Seronera and Orangi Rivers. This hilly and lush area was home to many giraffe, cheetah, and lions. The three cheetahs we spotted were hunting impala unsuccessfully. The thicker woods seemed to give the impala the advantage. Lions also took advantage of the thicker vegetation. Hunkered down on a ledge overlooking the river, four cubs were patiently waiting for adults to return. On our way to camp for lunch, we could barely make out the shape of a well hidden and camouflaged leopard high in an acacia tree.

During lunch a storm threatened but never materialized. Most of us spent the afternoon at the lunch tent talking with camp staff. We handed out maple syrup and took Polaroids. Later in the afternoon, we left for a game drive to the Moru Kopjes south of camp. These beautiful rocky promontories with plenty of candelabra euphorbia, acacia, and other trees and shrubs are used for cover by many animals. Although we saw none on this drive, these kopjes are favorite resting stops for lion, cheetah, and leopard. We were told that the Moru Kopjes area is the only known refuge of the black rhinoceros in the Serengeti. The rhinos are guarded day and night by armed park rangers.

A small cave hidden amidst one rock group had been decorated maybe 200 years ago by Maasai warrior initiates. Shields and men on bicycles had been painted in red ochre and white euphorbia tints. On another set of rocks sat "Gong Rock" -- a wedge shaped boulder that when struck sounded like a steel kettle drum. From the numerous pitted pockmarks on its surface it was evident this was a popular Maasai elder gathering area for ceremonies and meetings. We never tired of the Serengeti evenings which included awe inspiring sunsets, campfire and discussion, followed by a five star dinner. Lion and hyena serenaded us to sleep.