Saturday, February 05, 2005

Siku ya kumi na tatu (Day 13): Balloon Flight, Lion Cubs, Cheetahs

December 18, 2004 -- A collection of pictures taken in the Serengeti National Park can be found at Elwai Esirenget.

Our balloonists (Beverly, Brittany, Harry, and Robin) needed to be up by 4:45am to catch their 5:15am ride to the launch site, which was east of the camp along the Seronera River and west of the Maasai Kopjes. They were aloft for about an hour, flying from east to west. The rest of us were on the road by 7am for a leisurely "chase" of the hot-air balloon and abbreviated game drive. We watched the balloon landing -- it appeared to touch down very softly. Part of the balloon experience was a champagne breakfast out on the plains under an acacia tree. So while they dined "au grand air", we continued our game drive.

We added a crocodile (a juvenile only about two feet in length) to our small list of identified reptiles. In the same location we spotted two striking grey-crowned cranes. By mid-morning the balloonists were back with the group to complete the morning by exploring the woodland savannah along the Seronera and Orangi Rivers. This hilly and lush area was home to many giraffe, cheetah, and lions. The three cheetahs we spotted were hunting impala unsuccessfully. The thicker woods seemed to give the impala the advantage. Lions also took advantage of the thicker vegetation. Hunkered down on a ledge overlooking the river, four cubs were patiently waiting for adults to return. On our way to camp for lunch, we could barely make out the shape of a well hidden and camouflaged leopard high in an acacia tree.

During lunch a storm threatened but never materialized. Most of us spent the afternoon at the lunch tent talking with camp staff. We handed out maple syrup and took Polaroids. Later in the afternoon, we left for a game drive to the Moru Kopjes south of camp. These beautiful rocky promontories with plenty of candelabra euphorbia, acacia, and other trees and shrubs are used for cover by many animals. Although we saw none on this drive, these kopjes are favorite resting stops for lion, cheetah, and leopard. We were told that the Moru Kopjes area is the only known refuge of the black rhinoceros in the Serengeti. The rhinos are guarded day and night by armed park rangers.

A small cave hidden amidst one rock group had been decorated maybe 200 years ago by Maasai warrior initiates. Shields and men on bicycles had been painted in red ochre and white euphorbia tints. On another set of rocks sat "Gong Rock" -- a wedge shaped boulder that when struck sounded like a steel kettle drum. From the numerous pitted pockmarks on its surface it was evident this was a popular Maasai elder gathering area for ceremonies and meetings. We never tired of the Serengeti evenings which included awe inspiring sunsets, campfire and discussion, followed by a five star dinner. Lion and hyena serenaded us to sleep.