Thursday, December 30, 2004

Siku ya tatu (Day 3): Sinya Bound

December 8, 2004 -- A collection of pictures taken in the Sinya region can be found at Kambi ya Tembo; A collection of pictures taken at Mama Wilson's, in Arusha town, and Arusha National Park can be found at Arusha and Environs.

We awake to the symphony of African bird songs. Breakfast is scheduled for 7:30 a.m. but many of us are up and ready by seven. We mill about exploring the house grounds and drinking good strong coffee. Breakfasts at Mama Wilson's and those at the other camps and lodges were excellent. They always started with fresh fruit: mango, papaya, pineapple, watermelon, and bananas. Fruit juices were also available. The fruit course was followed by oatmeal and/or millet porridge. Then came the eggs, beef bacon and/or sausages with toast and crepes. The crepes were particularly good when lathered with jelly or honey.

By 8:30 a.m. we are on the road heading north towards Sinya, also known as Kambi ya Tembo, located on the western side of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Kitoi, a Kibo Safari nature guide joins us for the trip. He is the resident naturalist at the Sinya camp. James told us in a pre-departure briefing to expect the unexpected. We were not disappointed. About 45 minutes into the trek, James spied a group of people with video cameras in a clearing. They turned out to be a Seventh Day Adventist Church Choir from James' native region near Lake Victoria recording their performance outdoors. We were invited to participate in the production. What a sensational cultural beginning!

Back on the road, we suddenly veer east off-road and travel on a rough dirt track for 1 1/2 hours to reach Sinya. The country here is dry and desolate, peopled by nomadic Maasai and their herds of cows, goats, and donkeys. Clouds shroud Mts. Kilimanjaro and Meru, the two tallest peaks in the region. Game sightings on the way to Sinya include jackals, Burchell's zebras, Grant's and Thomson's gazelles, giraffes, ostriches, kori bustards, and wildebeest.

We arrive at Sinya around lunchtime and meet Sylvester, the camp manager and his staff, as well as our Maasai guides, Lomanyani and Leyo. The camp, on the bank of a dry lake bed, just south of Kenya's Amboseli National Park, is in the Kilimanjaro Heartland, a conservation area designated by the African Wildlife Foundation. It is still very dry here, the rains in this region are late this year.

Lunch included pasta with a delicious meat sauce with sides of marinated sliced cucumbers, corn and carrots, and freshly baked bread. James suggests that we take a siesta before a late afternoon game drive. Some do take a nap, and others stay in the mess tent to talk with our new camp friends.

We leave for our afternoon game drive at 3:30 p.m. In addition, to the Kibo guides, each vehicle has a Maasai guide. In no time we are adding to the number of giraffe, gazelle, and zebra already sighted. The highlights are kudu, dikdik, leopard turtle, and two wonderful herds of elephants. One is a bachelor herd led by a large bull. The second has several youngsters led by the matriarch. Now we know we are in Africa! We are losing light and head back to camp for showers and dinner.

Hot showers are available each evening between the last game drive and before dinner. Each tent is equipped with a bucket attached to a hose with a shower head. Water is heated centrally behind the tents and buckets are filled manually. One bucket suffices to shower two people but refills are available if needed. Showers in lodges are available on demand.

Before dinner we meet at the camp fire to chat about the day and munch on roasted cashews and popcorn. Dinner started with cream of tomato soup, followed by Talapia (from Lake Victoria), potatoes, and lettuce and tomato salad. Fresh bread was plentiful. Dessert was a fruit cup. Coffee and tea was always available. I won't continue to provide detailed menus except to highlight something special. Food was not a problem on this trip. Every meal was a culinary delight regardless of venue -- tented camp or lodge.

Maasai guides escort us to our tents. Lala salama was had by all!